Tutorial: Ruffled Maxi Skirt

This summer, while I didn't do much sewing, I did take a huge step out of my comfort zone and this skirt is the result.

Shannon, from Shanni Loves, was my spring sewing swap partner and she gave me this amazing floral fabric. While I do like pinks and reds and I have developed an appreciation of floral, I would typically never buy something like this. That said, I was utterly delighted when it arrived, and I knew instantly that I wanted it to be a maxi skirt.

Because I'm also trying out the whole "go BIG and BOLD" but still vintage look a la Ulyana Sergeenko, I was mightily inspired by some of her full skirt designs. I decided I didn't really need such a large ruffle (also I didn't have enough fabric) so I made a little tiny one that suits the skirt just fine, I think.

I started to get worried about it being a bit busy, especially since my style is normally very straightforward and simple. To make up for my uneasiness, I decided to add pockets. Every gathered skirt needs pockets.

Because I actually finished sewing this in July, Oonapalooza was happening and I decided to do something Oona inspired and really crazy (for me). The result was contrasting pockets! I think it's such a fun detail, but to be honest, they probably make me the most uncomfortable - ha!

And then, finally, I worried about the enclosure. I really didn't want to put a zipper in. And since I was doing pockets (and didn't want to rip open the already completed back), I was at a loss. After mulling it over for a week, it finally came to me that a button enclosure would work. Of course, once I put the button in, I found that it was a little loose, and a little loose meant that my contrasting pockets would show (eek!) so I put in a small snap in the corner. Problem solved.

(Is this a known technique? Because I felt like such a genius for thinking of it!)

And voila. I made the gray top earlier this year, and I'm madly in love with it.

So if you want to make your own maxi skirt, here's how I did it.

Supplies
2+ yards of fabric
matching thread
sewing machine
scissors
chalk
sewing pins

Seam Allowance: 5/8"

Directions
1. Cut out your two main pieces. You're basically going to cut two large rectangle. The waist should be your waist measurement x 3.2. For example, I measured out 89.6 inches for the top and bottom. To find the length, measure from your waist to where you want the length to hit. For me, I stopped 2 inches before the ground.

2. Cut out 2 identical pieces for your waistband. Take your waist measurements and add 2 inches. You want some overlap for the button enclosure. The width is 3 inches. So, for example, the waistband I cut was 30 inches by 3 inches.

3. Finally, you should have just enough leftover for the ruffle at the bottom. My ruffle was 4 inches by 286 inches (89.6 inches from the size of the hem on the skirt times 3.2). I had to sew a few pieces together to make it that long!

4. Cut out pockets. I tend to draw a circle around my hand, and then cut that shape out. You'll need 4 of those.

5. Sew your two waistband pieces together on 3 edges (one long, two short). Press and turn.

6. Sew your pockets into your skirt. If you need a tutorial, I love this one by Sewaholic. Make sure that you do not sew up the second pocket all the way. One pocket needs to be able to open and close to get the skirt over your head. In case you're confused by what I mean, do not place the pocket an inch or two below the waist. It needs to be part of the waist, extending the measurements. (see photo in step 10)

7. Ruffle your waist and bottom ruffle! When you're ruffling your waist, make sure that you do NOT ruffle the second pocket. That's how you're going to in and out of your skirt. I used my serger, and there's are the settings I used to ruffle, though of course you can ruffle however you feel most comfortable.

8. Carefully attach your ruffled waist to your waistband by lining up one end of your waistband to the  back of the open pocket. Pin around the waist. You should have several inches leftover for the button enclosure. After sewing the waistband to the ruffled waist, carefully top stitch the rest of the waistband closed.

9. Attach the ruffle to the bottom. Hem your skirt.

10. Finish the edges of your exposed pocket. Place a button on your waistband and sew a buttonhole. Attach a snap if necessary.

Tutorial: Hi-Low Ruffled Pencil Skirt

If you like my mermaid inspired skirt, then get excited because I made a little tutorial for you so you can make one as well!

While it seemed to suit me perfectly for my mermaid endeavors at the beach, it's a fun and comfortable skirt to wear out in general - best of all, it only took me a few hours on my serger!

If you don't have a serger, you can still make this with a regular sewing machine. I would recommend a zig-zag stitch for the seams and your choice for the gathers. (My usual method is here, but I think this new way looks fun to try!)

Supplies 
2-3 yards of stretchy jersey fabric - more if you're a larger size or want to line it
matching thread
serger or sewing machine (or needle and thread!)
scissors
chalk
sewing pins

Directions
1. Measure your waist and subtract 1.5 inches - it's jersey so you'll want negative ease. Cut out 2 long, rectangular pieces with this new measurement in length and 4.5" in width. (For example, someone with a 28" waist will cut out 2 rectangles that measures 26.5" x 4.5")

2. With right sides together, serge one of the long edges together. Turn and press. With RST, serge the two ends together with a half inch seam allowance to create the waist band.

3. Using the below picture as a guide, cut out your main pieces for the front and back sections of the skirt. The widest part of the skirt should be 1.5" less than your hip measurement. Using your waistband as a guide, grade the top of the skirt until it reaches your hip measurement - because jersey is stretchy, you don't need accurate measurements here. From the top to the side hem (not including the waistband), I have 16" and you can see the adjustments for the front and back piece. With the adjustments for the front piece, the center measures (not including the waistband) 14" in length. The center back (not including the waistband) measures 18" in length.

4. Sew the two sides together with a half inch seam allowance. Attach the waistband.

5. Measure around the bottom of your skirt to find the ruffle length and multiple that by 3.19. For example, if your bottom hem measures 48" all around, cut out strips for your ruffle at approximately 153" in length, with 4.5" in width. I like to ruffle on my serger - though if you prefer to gather by sewing machine you may. Gather until have the proper length of your ruffle.

6. Pin your ruffle into place and serge the ruffle onto the bottom of your skirt with a half inch seam allowance. You can finish the seams if you want, but jersey doesn't unravel so I left mine unfinished.

Sewing Skivvies: Tutorial from Naomi at One Avian Daemon on Drafting Underwear!

Whenever I see someone take the Seamless Pledge, a pledge where they will only make their own clothing OR buy used from a second hand or vintage store, most people include a clause that they plan on continuing to buy their underwear. I've unofficially taken the pledge and stuck with it for 2.5 years, though mine started because I was poor, and I too had an unwritten clause about buying underwear. But why? Why does underwear seem so mystical to us?

I made my first bra, which was ridiculously easy and still so, so comfortable. For real, I actually wore it all weekend rather than going bra-less, mostly because I forgot I was wearing it. And remember how I was all sad and felt strange about it flattening out my chest? Apparently this is normal, and I had no idea. None. (Too many fake chests on TV maybe?) Your comments and support amaze me, and I am so encouraged to continue making more bras. I may delve into a push-up bra at some point so I can have the stereotypical look for certain occasions, but right now I think I want to continue being comfortable and I'm going to make another Jasmine in skin-tone.

So what about underwear? That seems the next natural progression and it even seems easier than bra making. The underwear I buy doesn't always fit right. It's too loose, too tight, or it rides up so I should definitely make my own, but I've been a bit nervous to try. Ashley experimented with some Amerson undies and found they were too small all-over, including the crotch!

I asked Naomi from One Avian Daemon to do a tutorial about making underwear. If you haven't heard of her, definitely check out her blog. She makes beautiful self-drafted clothing and usually includes tutorials so you can easily achieve the same look!

Naomi in a gorgeous shirt she made from a tablecloth with sentimental value.

Naomi is a self-taught seamstress who sells her clothing on etsy and in boutiques in the San Francisco area. Last week I linked to her 7 part series on how to draft your own swimsuit, and today she's teaching us to draft our underwear! On her blog she's written about using fabric scraps for underwear, but this tutorial has more details on the fabric and finishing technique - perfect!

Making underwear is fun and easy! It doesn't take much fabric, so you can use left over scraps or buy expensive silk you wouldn't be able to afford in larger quantities. Almost any fabric will do: stretchy jersey is easiest, but you can use a woven fabric if you make it a bit bigger than you are and gather it in with elastic at the waist and leg holes. The liner should be cotton or jersey (a stretchy knit fabric), preferably both.  

To make underwear in my size (small), I usually use about 1/4 yard of fabric and 2 yards of elastic. Larger sizes will need a little more fabric and a lot more elastic. I've written in the past about the pattern I like to use for underwear, but if you like a different style it's easy to make your own pattern. 

Just pick out some undies you like and trace them onto a piece of newspaper or other large paper. This is easiest if they're worn out and you don't mind cutting them up - then you can just cut along the seams, but even if you don't want to do that you can trace the back easily, and the front by carefully folding and scrunching up the back so you can see the leg holes. Remember to add in seam allowance, particularly along any seams where you're going to use elastic. 

Once you've sewn together your undies you have to finish the edges. The most fun way to do this is with decorative lingerie elastic. To use it, sew the elastic to the fabric with the right sides facing each other (as if you were making an ordinary seam) using a slight zig zag stitch. Then fold the elastic under, and top stitch using a wider zig zag. 

You can also finish the edges using regular 1/8 inch elastic. Sew the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric at the edge of the leg hole, using an 1/8 inch zig zag stitch, beginning at the crotch seam. Hold the elastic tight, but don't stretch it. When you've gone all the way around the leg hole and reach where you started, cut off the extra elastic. Fold the edge of the leg hole over so the fabric warps over the elastic. Fold again. Sew down this folded edge with an 1/8 inch zig zag, stretching the fabric and elastic slightly as you sew. 

A third option is not to use elastic at all. I like this for underwear I'm going to wear with tight jeans, because it doesn't leave any elastic lines. But it also means there's nothing to hold the edges of the underwear in place (besides your pants), so it doesn't work well at all for underwear you're going to wear with dresses. If you have a serger, it looks nice to finish the edges with a lingerie hem stitch. But if you don't you can just fold the edges over like a regular hem.

Naomi makes it look so easy and beautiful! I'm especially intrigued by the lack of elastic - I may have to sew a couple different types of underwear this week! Have you made underwear before?

Facing Like A Boss

Sometimes I'm pretty lazy when it comes to sewing. There's always a point where I get tired and I'm think to myself, "What steps can I skips so I can be done already?" Usually, the easiest neglect is to skip the facing, roll the hem, and top stitch right along so I can just finish. Sometimes that turns out fine, but often times it doesn't and then I have a sub-par product.

I wanted to do that for this dress. I may have even started, but I knew I wouldn't be happy with it so I ripped it out and went back to figure out the facing.

Originally I cut out the facing for this dress (albeit, somehow, incorrectly) and stitched it on there in the first step, but it just wouldn't work because of the fraying. So I unpicked my sad pieces of fraying facing and traced out new ones. Ones that, hopefully would actually fit the bodice pieces.

Once you have your facing, stitch it on there. I'm all about the french seams on this dress, so first wrong sides together, then right sides together. And you end up with something that looks kind of nice, if only the facing would stay down.

But no matter how many times you iron it into place, the facing is not going to stay down.

Pull it up and you should have the facing on top, the seam, and the bodice piece below that.

Push the seam to the top so that it's on top of the facing. Sew the facing to the seam. This should not affect your actual fabric piece in any way.

Once you've stitched around, iron it down.

Flip it over, and you should have a beautiful neckline with no sneaky facing trying to escape!

This looks a million times better than folding the hem and top stitching (and letting it fray all over the place). Why do I resist this step every time?!

For When You Don't Have a Serger: French Seams

For those without a serger (and for those like me who have yet to try the overlock stitch on their machine), french seams are a great way to finish seams without the ends unraveling. If you haven't yet tried, here's an easy tutorial that should help get you started!

First, you'll need to figure out what your seam allowance should be. Just to be easy, let's say it's half an inch. So you'll sew the first bit at 1/4 seam allowance.

The first bit is sewn with wrong sides together. I know, it goes against everything you've been taught, and if you're like me, you panic just a bit when you're finished because it looks so very wrong. Don't give it in to the panic.

What I particularly like about the first step is that you're able to see where you're going and if you need to adjust either the second seam allowance or if you need to adjust something more drastic, like redoing the neckline, for instance. But hopefully that's not the case!

Next you press the stitches, and then snip off the excess, down to the seam.

Then you flip it inside out and sew, right sides together, your second seam allowance. By flipping and sewing the second seam allowance, you're encasing all the loose ends that may fray into a neat little pouch.

And then after pressing, you turn it right side out and find a beautiful seam! A little extra effort makes a beautiful finished garment.

Do you like french seams? What's your favorite way to finish seams in a garment?

Edit: As Miss Emmi from The Bar Nothing mentioned below, sometimes french seams aren't always the best way to finish a seam (i.e. if the fabric is too heavy or if the seam is curved), but I found this great round up of various ways to finish seams over at Sew, Mama, Sew and I thought I would share! She also has a tutorial for mock french seams, which do work on curves.