Sewing Skivvies: Ohhh Lulu's Ginger Swimsuit

Guess who's finally finished with the swimsuit!!

I am so in love with this suit. It's not perfect. Not even close, but I am ridiculously pleased with it and now I need to go to a beach immediately!

So if you remember from a month or more ago, I used Ohhh Lulu's Ginger Bodysuit, which you can buy here! I did have some issues assembling because I cut out the parts and discarded the paper BEFORE placing it all together. That might have been helpful. Luckily, I had an excellent sewing partner.

Unlucky for my sewing partner, though she somehow never complained, because she would arrange the pieces and I would feel a shudder of terror go through body as I would shriek, "No, no, do it again! This isn't right! See the stripes?! The stripes must match!!!" 

It was  a terribly dramatic time for me. Sorry, Ashley.

But anyway, stripes! My first time with stripes and they mostly match. There's a few pieces around the top that don't line up exactly, but I made it work and I'm so proud of myself.

I'm a little disappointed with the adjustments I wanted to make and didn't follow through with due to poor planning on my part. I wanted gathers under the bust but even though I cut the largest size for the chest (so I'd have plenty of extra to play with), it wasn't nearly enough and in fact, I ended up needing all of the fabric I cut for the top.

I also wanted to lower the sides on the bottom and add ruffles, but then I got tired and decided to scrap the idea. I still have some fabric for another pair of bottoms, but we shall see if I have the time or energy.

That being said, I am very pleased with how the pattern turned out sans the modifications I was thinking of making.

I was terrified that the bottoms were too revealing, despite having a higher waistline.

I was also annoyed that the back rides up (due to my larger rear) and I discussed jokingly about doing a full bum adjustment.

Not a bad idea to be honest, but once I tried on my old swimsuits for comparison, I realized they all rode up in the back and I had just never noticed. Furthermore, they were actually much more revealing on the bum.

Weird how you only notice those things once you're sewing!

Another thing I'd love to work on with my full bum adjustment is the saggy part in the back. It's actually not as noticeable with this swimsuit (especially compared with my RTW swimwear), but it's something I always have to deal with and if I'm making bottoms myself there must be a way to do away with it.

(Or is that one of those things that's totally normal and once again I missed the boat because I was over in the corner being self-conscious?)

Can we pause for a moment and talk my hair? I wanted to do an old time-y photo shoot  because the stripes just scream retro to me (and completely forgot to bring the rest of my props on the roof!) but this hair-do with the victory rolls is so easy and I felt so gorgeous and also like a siren. I told my boyfriend I wanted to go out and call men to their deaths and he just laughed.

I was so serious.

Okay so back to the swimsuit. 

I'm going to compile a tip sheet for swimsuits with links to people who know much more about swimsuit sewing than I do. (Edit: Tips here!) But I was so surprised at how difficult it was. I like knits. I think sewing with knits are fun.

But this was not fun.

Maybe it's been too many months since I actually worked with knits but this fabric rolls like crazy. And the trying to get the stripes lined up was insane.

Perhaps if I had basted the lining to the main part instead of trying to serge all 4 layers together at once while lining up the stripes.

But why would I do anything to make my life easier? ;-) It worked out in the end.

Everyone wants to know about how concerned I am with the white stripes on the swimsuit. I'm not at all. It's fully lined and I carefully laid out the pattern pieces so that not only would the stripes match but the green parts covered all my bits. So I am 100% okay with jumping into a body of water.

A lot of people having been making a lot of awesome swimsuits this summer, and every single one of them says that they love how they feel and they want to wear it out. While I'm glad everyone's feeling some self-esteem, I may have scoffed a bit because it seems a bit ridiculous to feel amazing in swimsuit but actually, it's true.

I feel incredible in this suit. I don't feel self-conscious at all. I think making your own suit is perfect because you have so much control over it, from the pattern to the fabric to even how tight you like your elastic. And it's a million times cheaper than paying $150+ for a nice one.

So yes. Everyone go make swimsuits!

And, ahem, that officially concludes the Show Off Your Skivvies challenge on my end... only 13 days late. Not too shabby. I'll compile a list of links for those looking for resources for the own swimsuits, and I'll have a final round-up post.

Next up: probably a dress.

Sewing Skivvies: An Interview with Sarah from Ohhh Lulu!

Winter Undies

Today I am so pleased to announce that Ashley and I have an interview with Sarah, the mastermind behind Ohhh Lulu. If you're not familiar with Ohhh Lulu, you're in for a real treat!

I started following Ohhh Lulu last year when she hosted a sewalong for the Ginger Bodysuit. I did not partake in it because it has taken me a year and lots of lurking to get comfortable sewing lingerie (and posing in it!) - and now I get to interview Sarah as well! I'm one lucky lady.

The lovely Sarah of Ohhh Lulu

Ohhh Lulu lingerie is a line I've long admired. Her lingerie is delicate, classy with a retro vibe, and also a bit modern. She creates the most beautiful lingerie, but she also sells some of her sewing patterns for those of us who like to attempt it ourselves.

For a bit of background: Sarah focused on Evening Wear and Foundation Garments at George Brown College's Fashion Techniques and Design Program in Toronto. After moving back home for the man of her dreams, she rediscovered her sewing machine and Ohhh Lulu was born. (This sounds a bit like a movie, no?)

In honor of the Show Off Your Skivvies Challenge, Ashley and I asked Sarah all about her process of designing lingerie, tips and tricks for sewing it, and, of course, how she chooses her models.

What made you decide to start designing and sewing lingerie? 

For me, sewing lingerie is a way to incorporate details like ruffles, rosettes, bows, and delicate fabrics onto wearable pieces. I also have always loved having a well-stocked underwear drawer! I started sewing just for myself, then created my line.

Set of 3 Nautical Hipster Panties

Your collections definitely have a distinctive aesthetic. Do you design with a specific fabric in mind or do you design for a certain look and then find fabric to complement that? 

Normally, I will find one fabric that just speaks to me. Then I start pulling other fabrics to complement it. Once I have some fabric combinations that I like and that I am excited about, the garments just come naturally. I have always loved fabric and have been fortunate to work in the textile industry, which has given me a love for fine fabrics and great prints. 

Your designs are accessible and wearable. Is comfort something you think about when designing a new garment? 

Absolutely - when I started Ohhh Lulu, I wanted to provide handmade lingerie that was at a price-point that was accessible to most women. I think great, ethical fashion should be available to everyone! I also like to design pieces that are nice enough to save for a special occasion, but that also can find their way into your every day wardrobe. 

Could you describe the process of designing and releasing new patterns and garments? What’s the best part of the designing and sewing process? 

Preparing a new pattern can be a very long process for me, and one that is ongoing! I consider myself a designer first, seamstress second, and pattern maker third, so patterns tend to take me the longest. I like to keep my pattern styles fairly simple - minimal lines, and easy to sew. 

Once I have the pattern drafted, I test sew the different size grades to check the fit. I then scan my hand drafted patterns into the computer and create a digital version. I then print my digitized copy, and sew each size again, this time photographing as I go so that I can use the images in the instruction. Of course, along the way, I make small revisions and edits to the pattern. 

Designing new garments is my favourite part of what I do. I love fabric shopping, and finding unique colour and print combinations. I am not a skilled illustrator and find that I am better just cutting into my fabric and sewing as the inspiration hits. I like to keep most of the style lines in a collection fairly simple, and add a few specialty pieces, like my new cropped camisoles, or a pair of ornately ruffled panties. 

Once I have sewn samples and chosen the sets that make the cut, I photograph each piece and send samples to photographers. After all of the photos have been edited, I work on writing descriptions - the writing process is actually something I really love! 

What sorts of things do you consider when developing a new pattern? 

Sophia Panties

When I am choosing patterns for release as sew-at-home patterns, I consider the difficulty level. When I am sewing for myself for fun, I generally choose patterns that are relatively quick and easy to sew, but have high impact. 

For me, sewing is something that should be fun, so I like to create patterns that are quick and easy for most sewers. When I am creating patterns for new garments, I also take into account how I will feel sewing that particular style over, and over, and over again! 

What made you decide to release at-home sewing patterns for some of your designs? 

I had been getting a lot of requests from other sewing-enthusiasts through my blog. I really love sewing lingerie, it is something I absolutely enjoy doing, and I wanted to share that with others. My patterns are simple and easy to manipulate, and a great start for anyone who wants to try their hand at lingerie-making.

Ginger Bodysuit

How did you come up with the Ginger swimsuit/bodysuit? 

I wanted to make a one piece bodysuit with a really retro vibe. I based it off a basic leotard sloper, and added some bust shaping. It is a pattern that is pretty easy to sew, and looks great as a two piece! 

Any tips or tricks for the beginner who is just learning to sew her own lingerie? 

Start with easy to work with fabrics - that's how I started. Pick up some vintage sewing patterns that will work with cottons and non stretch fabrics. This will let you get a hang of applying elastic, and working with bias cuts... From there, move on to knits and more difficult to work with fabrics. 

Although most of your models are thin, none of them seem to have “unrealistic” bodies, and your photoshoots are never oversexualized or obviously airbrushed (like many commercial lingerie shoots). Is relatability something you look for in a model and a shoot, and how do you choose your models? 

Cropped Camisole with Crocheted Lace

This is something that is really important for me. I have been very fortunate to work with some young, talented photographers who have helped me capture the look I am going for with Ohhh Lulu. I definitely want women to be able to easily envision themselves in the garments. 

Being a petite lady myself, I have focused on smaller sizes as buying off the rack didn't always work for my body, but I also recognize that there is a great demand for more range in sizing at the other end of the spectrum. As my business grows, I hope to offer a larger range in size and reflect that through the models I use as well. 

It always makes me laugh, because when I am designing a garment "sexy" is rarely a word that comes into my mind, which seems counterproductive for a lingerie designer. I think, "beautiful, elegant, feminine, romantic..." I design things that I would like to wear, that I would like to show off, and that I would feel great in. I think that sense of confidence that comes along with that is really what is sexy. 

Isn't she wonderful and so inspiring? After reading her responses, I feel like whipping up a couple of bras will be no problem at all!

I hope you feel the same way because Sarah has generously given all us skivvy sewers 15% off her Etsy shop for the rest of the month! Use coupon code ShowOff2013 and make and show off some more skivvies!

I’m turning the Ginger bodysuit into a bikini - so hopefully I’ll have that done soon! Are you as inspired as I am? Have you made anything from Ohhh Lulu before?